There’s no arguing that Versace has had a tough start to the decade. The struggling fashion house, since the death of its founder, has seen financial turmoil, familial clashes and an epic cocaine habit by Donatella Versace, the successor to the design throne. Collections of the past few seasons were out of sync with the fashion zeitgeist – and even loyal customers were determined to cut the cord with the over-the-top bling associations of the past.
But nobody can find fault with the family for their lack of perseverance. When the sales dried up the house opted for selling Gianni’s vast contemporary art collection and other assets, paying off debts and cutting back on the lavish lifestyle of which family members made no qualms about hiding their extravagant ways from the media. Nowadays, under-performing stores have been closed to make room for a re-design of its flagship outlets, where a zen-like environment has replaced the previous glitterball-3am surroundings of yesteryear.
According to Donatella, the changes taking place at Versace are to bring the brand back to its core values: sexy and sophisticated, but also tailored, well-cut and less rock ‘n roll. The new collection, hailed by critics as the best in recent years, consists of 90 per cent daywear, as opposed to the slashed-and-trashed red carpet numbers that made Versace a byword for late-Eighties decadence.
These days, Donatella is more inspired and prodigious than every: her hunger to design is stronger than before – and she is up to the challenge of creating a collection that is contemporary and universal, and that connects with the Versace customer each season.
Look out for a new Versace silhouette; a nipped-in waist and a wider lapel. Pair a voluminous sweater with a pencil skirt, and you’re getting the look. The newly refurbished boutique on Sloane Street will re-open this July.
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